![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:31 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I’ve just been offered a 2004 NB 1.8 5spd for £1,400. Spec as follows.
74,000 miles with FSH, belts and whatnot done at 62k. MOT until March ‘17 - it failed on 17th Feb ‘16 due to ;
“nearside rear Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings floor (6.1.B.2)
nearside rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded inner sill to floor (5.2.6)
rear Anti-roll bar rubber mounting deteriorated resulting in excessive movement [D] (2.4.G.2)“
This was apparently all rectified by 19th Feb ‘16 when it was retested with no fails or advisories.
There’s bubbles of rust at the top of the rear arches, likely eventually requiring new panels R & L. Otherwise it’s very clean and the interior is immaculate. 2 owners. Had the rag top replaced 2years ago for a new unit with the heated glass rear window.
Sorry for awful pics. NP?
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:35 |
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NP to me, yes... What engine is it? 1.6 or 1.8? Does it have a LSD? (mere questions just to know if it’s got a NP or a very NP :) )
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:35 |
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I like it, but do you really need another rusty car?
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:38 |
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That’s a pretty good price. I’d jump on it.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:39 |
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Get the panels replaced sooner rather than later so they can cut out the rot that is inevitably forming behind the panels (even though they should have repaired it)
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:40 |
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1.8, not sure about the LSD, but I can find out as its only in the next building. If there’s anything to tell them apart, what do I need to look for?
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:42 |
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No I absolutely don’t. Stop spoiling my fun. I’d put it on the lift before buying anyway :)
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:44 |
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Then I’m on board, as long as I get to have a go :D
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:46 |
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From Miata.net hivemind archive:
For 04-05: (Tochigi Fuji):
If the car is an LS (leather interior, Bose Stereo, Silver interior trim) it has a LSD.
A LSD was available for the black cloth interior models only if it was ordered with the Suspension Package option. Unlike the previous years it could not be ordered separately. Unless you can see the car up close and know exactly what to look for, it’s very had to tell if an 04-05 was order with the Suspension Package. Again, best bet is to get the VIN and call Mazda Customer service.
Or spin the wheel :D
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:48 |
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Holy shit that clean of an NB2 for less than $2k??? That exact car would be a minimum of $4k around here. Miatas rust, it’s basically unavoidable. No way my car would pass that inspection either, thats pretty insane but I imagine it stops people from driving dangerous things around. The seat belt mount and sway bar are easy fixes that you dont have to worry about, but definitely check the underbody since there could be some bad corrosion that I cant see here. These things do not have much if any underbody paint protection, so the frame rails tend to get rusty. Either way, this sounds like a good price unless your market is wildly different for used cars.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:51 |
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I think there is a way to tell from the VIN number but I don’t know how... As for the late model NB, they were fitted with an optional torsen 2 LSD. That means that it’s fairly hard to know whether or not you have one (with regular clutch based LSD, you can just lift up the rear, put the gearbox in neutral and turn one rear wheel by hand. If the other wheel goes the other way around, you have an open diff, if it goes the same way, you have a LSD... unless it’s a Torsen)
Best way is to just get behind the wheel. Stop, shift in 1st, drop the clutch. 1 tire mark: open diff, 2 tire marks: LSD :)
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:55 |
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The market tends to be fairly cheap because the cost of ownership is so high, but even so this seems very cheap - which worries me.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:55 |
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Since it has the 5speed and if it is cloth, then the LSD definitely didn’t come standard. But it is certainly possible to have optioned it in. You really do not need it though if you don’t plan on racing/auto-x the car.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 10:58 |
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Ahh, they did change it for the later NB2s. Well it should make it easier to figure out then if it has the LSD. Since in the earlier ones, you could get the sport suspension without the LSD. I would think if OP could look for the sport suspension (the color stickers on the springs) then that could indicate an LSD. I forget which color is which though.
Suspension package choice should be indicated in the driver door jamb as well.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:00 |
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I’m not sure if this is a NP to be honest. Corrosion is the devil. It all depends on how much work (plus money) it needs to sort this out plus how other MX5s are priced. Unless you’re capable of fixing this yourself or have a mate who can help you out I’d pass.
Corrosion is the reason I bought a 306 convertible over an MX5. The 306 isn’t as fun (still fun though; brilliant chassis for a FWD car) but they don’t really rust and parts are cheaper/easier to find.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:06 |
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Well you should be able to inspect it a bit. There are many common areas for this car that will be problem points. Assuming it runs and keeps it’s fluids where they belong, then I wouldnt worry much about the motor. The only concern really is rust. The rocker panels, rear quarter panels, front subframe, and the control arms tend to get quite corroded if winter driven without maintaining the rust. Much of that is basically unfixable without a skilled welder. So just making sure it is actually “minor rust” and not something much worse is important.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:14 |
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That’s a lot of rust though for an ‘04 car and no matter how much you weld it it’ll come back (ask me how I know...)
I’d stay clear myself.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:18 |
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A lot of money though. My FTO has rusty chassis rails (they all go there) and as you can still buy them new I suggested to my body shop that maybe I should.
Some whistling through teeth.
“Do you know the amount of work involved? Take out rear seats, tank and entire suspension then cut out floor and weld in new pieces to attach the rails to and it’ll continue to rust everywhere else”
Didn’t buy them.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:20 |
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Same here. No way you can tell without seeing the actual rust damage.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:24 |
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Agreed. Although It’s noteworthy that the newer NB2 Tochigi Torsens is not a “true” Torsen like the TorsenI/II from earlier models. It also has less torque bias (~2:1 as opposed to 2.5:1).
Best way is still just to do a mechanical test as described though, you never know what the PO put in.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:38 |
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Still giving your MOT tester night terrors then? I saw the FTO was back in the land of the living :)
![]() 09/12/2016 at 11:45 |
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Yes, after €320 worth of welding it’s good to go again.
How long it’ll last is another matter - last winter was wet and it’s started to go everywhere.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 12:12 |
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That’s not much money, but I’d pay your mechanic a hundred of your Brexit pounds (or however much) to give it a once over. Or a twice over.
![]() 09/12/2016 at 12:23 |
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That’s not a bad price, I’ve seen useable NBs sell for much less, but not in that lovely purple colour, and it’s in much better than most of them. I’ve got no idea if ‘04 was a good year for them or not. Might have to have a look at that